Saturday, March 20, 2010

St. Patrick’s Day recipes & tips



Green Salad


The salad dressing recipe was from a British web site adapted with my memory of smooth house dressings at Robaire’s French Restaurant. The almond oil was from Robaire's. The turmeric was added for color.


half a cup of sherry vinegar

one cup of olive oil

half a cup of almond oil

tablespoon of Dijon mustard

salt & pepper

tablespoon of dried parsley

teaspoon of dried chives

half teaspoon paprika

half teaspoon of turmeric


Whisk together and set aside for at least four hours.


The salad was butter lettuce and mixed organic greens served with Asparagus and pickled beets and onions

The asparagus were trimmed, cooked in boiling water then blanched in ice water. The beet salad was simplicity itself, two cans of pickled beets with two small red onions thinly sliced. After four hours, the pickled beet juice mellowed and turned the onion bright red.


The Corned Beef


Many years ago sitting at the counter at Langer’s Deli near downtown LA, my wife and I talked to one of the cooks and he told us how to cook corned beef at home. At Langer's they put the corned beef into steam cabinets that hold the meat at about 190 degrees for six to eight hours. The key to keeping it tender and juicy is never to let it boil.


At home a crock pot is ideal to match this deli slow cooking. Ten hours before dinner put two pieces of corned beef about 4 pounds each into the crock pot plus a quarter cut of mixed pickling spices. In my family we pour in two cups of Apple Cider vinegar or if you have it black malt vinegar. The cider vinegar give a bit of brightness, the malt vinegar is strong and sweet. Then fill the crock pot with cold water up to half an inch of the rim, cover and put on low. Turn the meat two or three times during cooking. When the meat is done (usually around eight hours) you can turn the crock pot off.


To cook the vegetables take about half the cooking water from the crock pot and ladle it into a large pot and add water to cook the carrots, parsnips, turnips and onions and potatoes and cook them on the stove. Bring to a boil and then let simmer until they are cook to your taste. The old country Irish cook them soft, but today most of us prefer them with some texture but not Al Dente. This is up to you.


Tips & suggestions


Don’t peel or cut the onions, the skins will come off and the whole onion will not fall apart while cooking. While you are carving the corned beet put in a whole cabbage cut into eighths, or quarters if you have two small cabbages. Do not cut off the core. It will hold the cabbage wedges together.


Serve the sliced corned beef on a platter along with a platter of the vegetables.


I use an electric knife to do the slicing. Since very few home cooks have professional grade knives or the skill to keep them sharp, the electric knife is the most reliable way to carve the meat. They are less than $20 at Target. Emeril Lagasse , Elton Brown, Bobby Flay and other Food Channel headliners recommend them for home kitchens.


To be traditional small white rose potatoes would be cooked with the other root vegetables. Parsnips and turnips are optional, but traditional in Ireland if you have them. In Irish slang Turnips are called “nips” while potatoes are called “spuds” or “praties" (pray'tee's). Most Irish families serve horse radish and mustard with the corned beef.


Tastes vary widely but I served the corned beef with a hot sweet Russian style mustard, a strong German style mustard and a whole grain Dijon mustard. Gulden's Spicy Brown or "Chicago Style" mustard is not surprisingly very close to tangy German Mustard. In Ireland they use Coleman’s English Mustard which is very very sharp, too sharp for American taste. But you can find Coleman's in most supermarkets is you want to be authentic and fearless.


In Los Angeles, we have a famous and ferocious local mustard, Phillipe’s house made mustard is available at the restaurant by the jar. This summer a French college student we took there told us he loved the mustard and the double dipped beef made him feel at home. He was from Grenoble and I later discovered so was the founder Phillipe. The sandwich is not called the "French Dip" for nothing. The name of the place should be pronounced Fil-LEAP in the French manner, but this being LA we pronounce it like the Spanish Filipe. ¿Porque no?

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